1. Merkato

I jump out of the way, barely avoiding another crash with a donkey.  Wow, that was close…  The pile of baskets on its back is so high that I doubt it’s able to see.  It’s a challenge to find a clear path with this congestion, and lugging my heavy camera gear adds another layer of difficulty.  This place is unbelievable…  No wonder it’s called the largest open-air market in Africa.  I’ve been to a lot of markets, but this is the most chaotic and sensory stimulating that I’ve ever experienced.  A continuous flow of vehicles, people and roaming animals are among thousands of stalls and street vendors selling, creating or recycling their goods.  My eyes and lens don’t know where to focus.  I see a man with a stack of six mattresses on top of his head, walking past an organized stall with a vendor selling cooking oils, which is next to a woman selling spices in the street.  The layout seems haphazard, but I read that there is a system in place that the locals understand.  I, on the other hand, do not understand.  But I quickly surmise that anything I might want to buy while I’m here in Ethiopia, on another National Geographic Photography Expedition, can be found here.  However, I’m not here to shop.  I’m here to explore and take images.  With my guide nearby, I carefully meander through the maze of bustling roads, walking paths and alleyways, curious to see what’s around the next corner.  The vibrant colors and array of merchandise are appealing.  The noise and mixture of aromas are not — but that’s to be expected in a commercial hub where nearly 13,000 people are employed.  It’s mind-boggling.  I can only imagine what it’s like to work in this mecca doing back-breaking labor for very little money, or perhaps not making any money at all somedays.  I try not to think about that, or about how kids keep asking me if I want to buy some chewing gum or have my shoes cleaned.  I simply want to give them some Birr (Ethiopian currency), but I know that if I do, more kids will come running with their hands out.  It’s tough to see, so I remind myself that the kids are being industrious, just like the others who work here.  This thriving market is an integral part of life in this area of Ethiopia.